The Measure

Exploring what it means to be a better man.

Nicole Walling

The Mastermind Behind Trumaker's Fall 17 Collection

August 2nd, 2017

When getting dressed for the day ahead, you don’t always think about the work that goes into your clothes. The truth is, a few people put a ton of thought into every detail that becomes part of each Trumaker collection.

Nicole Walling is one of those people. She’s the veteran mastermind behind our growing line of menswear, and she’s spent almost two decades helping early-stage clothing brands grow into household names. Marc Jacobs, Tory Burch, Rag & Bone, and yes, even Yeezy have all benefited from her creative prowess. It’s safe to say that Nicole has a knack for making clothes that resonate with people.

To help preview our upcoming Fall ‘17 collection, Nicole sat down with us and shared the ideas and inspiration that brought it to life.

Interview

Before you joined Trumaker, what was your favorite period of time in the fashion world? You’ve had quite the journey so far!

Without a doubt it would be my time at Marc Jacobs. I think he was a visionary, he’s so far ahead of the curve. I still remember back in 2003 when he told our team “we’ve got to do skinny jeans” and we all laughed. We had no idea how popular they would get, but he did and proved us all wrong.

And what keeps you going after all these years? What’s your personal why behind your passion for apparel?

All those companies I’ve worked at were relatively small when I started. My thing is “start them while they’re small, take them to their peak” — and just watching people fall in love with the product over the years, that’s when I knew I wanted to be in this industry forever.

Cool! So tell us about this upcoming season. How did you approach the design angle for this fall and winter?
The big theme for the fall/winter collection is what I call ‘rebellion with aristocratic sensibility’. We’re using a lot of classic shapes and styles but adding these refined and modern updates. One example — something I’m super excited for — is our henley. Instead of going with 
a traditional pima cotton, we went with a super-soft brushed fleece cotton feel and added in proprietary details like a wrapped rib to elevate the design and upgrade the fit and quality.

Totally. I can definitely see that rebellious streak behind some of these inspiration photos. How did you carry this same goal over to the made-to-measure line?

We applied the same philosophy to our made-to-measure casual fabrics this season by just making them better — and different at the same time. Take your traditional grandpa’s buffalo check for example — instead of doing it like many other brands, we took the same pattern and developed it in this unique draped flannel that’s special to us. And as a made-to-measure shirt, it’ll come with powder-coated black metal buttons by default to modernize it a bit too. We’re doing the same with most of the other made-to-measure casual choices this fall — expect them to come with this extra level of detail that really elevates them.

This definitely sounds exciting. And are you doing the same with business shirts and suits too? How do you add that rebellious streak and upgrade them while still keeping them work-appropriate?Our business wear inspiration this season is very American Psycho — that’s the best way to describe it. Think very cool 1980s color palette and design details — we developed fabrics and patterns that I can really see those guys wearing. So you’re going to see all the Trumaker business basics return, but you’re also going to see this seasonal business collection that’s very much about red and blue hues, finer lines, and tonal patterns to create a bit of vintage appeal.

Any favorite items we should be extra-excited about?

We have a black selvage denim suit that’s super awesome. The idea is a little bit rebellion in the workplace — given how many companies are already veering away from refined suits as a dress code, we wanted to develop a casual statement piece that’s still acceptable in the workplace. It’s a rugged but still professional option, and only the wearer is going to know they’re wearing what is actually a selvage denim fabric, but in suit form.

 

Prepare for Fall 17 Launch

Nicole heads the product development team at Trumaker. For this fall/winter collection, expect a significant upgrade to your wardrobe. Before that, check out some of Nicole's work for the spring '17 collection and get fitted with us if you have not done so already!

Spring Collection

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